Spring oriental beauty

Only 30g of tea, but it cost RM390

Recently, I was invited to sample the Spring Oriental Beauty at the Nandaka Vihara, joining the Chief Abbot, Bhante Dhammasubho, and several monks who regularly enjoy their cups of excellent Chinese tea. This particular batch of tea leaves had been generously donated by Saw See, Siew Kee and Ban Leong, which added an extra layer of significance to the occasion. 

This was no ordinary tea experience; it was an immersion into the finest aspects of tea appreciation. The Chief Abbot, a tea connoisseur by my reckoning, even carried a small portable scale to measure the amount of tea leaves for each brew, ensuring precision with every cup and every serving. He graciously shared his knowledge with us, explaining the different types of Chinese tea available on the market today.

We spent about an hour with the Abbot and his fellow monks, savouring the Spring Oriental Beauty, a tea that stands in a class of its own, even among the best Oriental teas. The taste was incredibly sublime, a world apart from regular tea leaves such as Pu'er. The tea’s extraordinary smoothness and fruity aroma lingered long after each sip, making it a truly unforgettable experience.

There is a need to distinguish between the Spring Oriental Beauty and its more affordable counterpart, the Oriental Beauty. Oriental Beauty, often referred to as the “Champagne of Tea”, is rare and unique enough. Originally from Taiwan, its distinctive muscatel flavour—a multi-layered blend of sweet, floral and fruity notes—results from a fascinating natural process. Tiny green flies, known as tea jassids, bite the tea leaves during the summer, causing the leaves to produce an antibody that gives the tea its characteristic fruity aroma and honey-like sweetness.

This tea, historically so prized that 15kg of it was once worth the cost of a house in Taiwan, is made through a painstaking process. Tea farmers must maintain their gardens without pesticides, hoping these elusive insects will visit their crops. The plucking process is equally meticulous, as only the leaves bitten by the green flies—typically one bud and two leaves per twig—are selected for processing. The result is a tea that has captivated connoisseurs for generations.

While Oriental Beauty is already a highly sought-after tea, Spring Oriental Beauty elevates it to another level. Harvested in the spring, rather than early summer, it is made from the most tender and delicate tea leaves grown atop the Alishan mountain. The cooler spring climate means fewer green flies, and the leaves that are bitten must meet even more stringent criteria. Only 20kg of tea is produced per hectare of tea garden, making Spring Oriental Beauty exceedingly rare.

This tea is more greenish than traditional Oriental Beauty, with an even more pronounced flavour profile. The foggy, windy and cold conditions of the mountain where the tea is grown, contribute to its mellow, sweet taste. During the day, the tea leaves produce plenty of compounds, which remain stored due to the cold temperatures at night. This results in a richer, more complex flavour in the final product. I know all this, because I've been reading up from the Hojo Tea website.

When comparing the two teas, Oriental Beauty offers a remarkable fruity and honey-like aroma, with a muscatel finish that lingers pleasantly on the palate. However, Spring Oriental Beauty delivers an even more refined experience. The flavour is smoother, with a depth that reflects the care taken in its production and the rarity of the leaves.

Dhammasubho, with his expertise, made this experience all the more special. The careful brewing under his watchful eyes, paired with his insightful commentary on tea, allowed us to fully appreciate the exceptional qualities of Spring Oriental Beauty. After this session, it’s easy to see why this tea commands such a high price—RM1,300 per 100g—compared to the already expensive Oriental Beauty, which costs RM480 per 100g.

Both teas offer an extraordinary experience, but Spring Oriental Beauty stands out as the ultimate expression of this craft. Its rarity, complexity and refined taste make it a true treasure in the world of tea.