Nepal 2025, Day Six (II. Patan durbar square and Golden temple)

Our guide had told us early in the day that there are three Durbar Squares in the Kathmandu Valley — one each in Kathmandu, Bhaktapur and Patan — and while all three are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, visiting just one or two would give us a good enough feel for their historical and architectural importance. We settled on the Patan Durbar Square, and what a fine choice that turned out to be.

Patan was one of three ancient cities that formed the cultural heart of the valley. The Durbar Square here is a rich mosaic of Nepal’s Malla-era grandeur: a place where art, religion and royal history all seemed to merge into one timeless moment. As we arrived, it was easy to see why Patan is often called the "City of Fine Arts." With its wealth of temples, statues, palaces and courtyards, every corner of the square seemed to whisper stories of the past. I let out an audible gasp when the first sight of Patan totally overwhelmed me.

The square itself was a feast for the eyes. The Krishna Mandir immediately drew attention. It was a three-storey temple built entirely of stone and adorned with beautifully detailed carvings that depicted scenes from the Mahabharata and Ramayana. Built in the 17th century by King Siddhinarsingh Malla, it stood as a reminder of Patan’s golden era. Nearby was the Bhimsen Temple with its gleaming golden windows and intricate woodwork. And all around us were tiered pagoda roofs and prayer flags fluttering in the breeze.

We wandered into the palace complex with its series of royal courtyards, and then into the Patan Museum. This museum was one of the unexpected highlights of our visit. Housed in a beautifully restored part of the old palace, its galleries offered a compelling look into Nepal’s sacred art and history. The exhibits were thoughtfully curated, blending ancient bronze and gilt figures with detailed explanations of Buddhist and Hindu symbolism. Some pieces dated back centuries, and yet felt timeless. What stood out was how the museum managed to be both informative and atmospheric. The quiet courtyards, soft lighting and elegant architecture made it a perfect setting to appreciate the artefacts. We could’ve spent much longer there, but the day was pressing on.

From the museum, we made our way to the Hiranya Varna Mahavihar, more popularly known as the Golden Temple. Built in the 12th century and still functioning as a living Buddhist monastery, it remains one of the most important shrines for Buddhists in Kathmandu. The temple is an outstanding example of Nepalese metalwork. There were gilded walls amd sacred sculptures all gleaming in the light. 

Unfortunately, the temple was undergoing some form of repair work during our visit, and it was not possible to move about freely. The courtyard felt congested. too many visitors milling about. Everyone seemed to gravitate towards the inner sanctum, eager to view the main Buddha image. But taking a decent photograph proved difficult. There was always someone in the way — especially one rather authoritative holy man (or was he a caretaker?) who stood near the doorway throughout, seemingly blocking every perfect angle. I'm sure it was on purpose, for whatever reason.

Still, the atmosphere remained potent. It was clear this wasn’t just a historical site but a place of living faith. Despite the crowds, the scaffolding and our thwarted attempts at photography, we left feeling that we’d experienced something rare and genuine.

By the end of our visit, I could fully understand what our guide meant about the three Durbar Squares. Patan alone had so much depth and character that it left us quite fulfilled visually. It was a living museum, a sacred space and a window into Nepal’s rich and layered heritage. The dust, the crowds, the holy man in the way — all part of the experience. And all quite unforgettable.

A horse with no name

I would think a band named America would have started somewhere in the United States but no, the story began in London. It was the late 1960s, and three teenagers—Dewey Bunnell, Gerry Beckley and Dan Peek—were living in England because their fathers were stationed at the US Air Force base in South Ruislip. They were what people call Air Force brats, and all three ended up at London Central High School.

Far from home, they gravitated towards one another over a shared love of music. Folk-rock was booming at the time, and the boys were hooked on everything from Crosby, Stills & Nash to the Beatles and the Beach Boys. There were tight harmonies, acoustic guitars and melodies that linger.

They started jamming together, writing songs and playing at small clubs and pubs around London. Their early stuff was mostly acoustic, very stripped down, built around their harmonies and the blending of voices. Dewey tended to write more of the moodier, atmospheric songs; Gerry had a knack for writing the kind of pop tunes that stuck in the head; and Dan brought a slightly edgier touch. Different flavours that fitted together quite nicely.

Somewhere along the way, they crossed paths with someone named Ian Samwell who had written Move It for Cliff Richard. He’d done time with the Drifters too. Samwell saw something in them and helped get them signed to Warner Bros Records. That was the big break.

Their self-titled debut album, America, came out in 1971. Initially, it had modest sales, some radio play but nothing earth-shattering. Then in early 1972, they released A Horse with No Name as a single. The song shot up the charts, hitting number one in the United States and made waves internationally too. The anecdote is that Dewey wrote that song in rainy old England while dreaming of wide desert landscapes he had never actually seen. Yet somehow, he nailed the American West vibe perfectly.

The success of the single pushed the album back into the charts, and suddenly America was a household name. The album had more to offer too. Gerry’s I Need You became a hit on its own: a ballad that still held up today.

So that’s how three kids from American military families, stranded in the UK, ended up forming one of the most recognisable folk-rock bands of the 1970s. They may have started out far from home, but their music sounded unmistakably American and it struck a chord with listeners all over the world.

Side One: Riverside, Sandman, Three roses, Children, A horse with no name, Here 
Side Two: I need you, Rainy day, Never found the time, Clarice, Donkey jaw, Pigeon song

Ah, an author at last!

On the third day of the Standard Chess competition at the 23rd ASEAN+ age-group chess championships, I received a message from a friend—obviously not a chess-playing one—telling me that someone from Kelantan had posted a picture of my old chess book on Facebook.

“Buku catur pertama yang ambo baca 29 tahun lepas ditulis oleh Mr Quah Seng Sun,” he’d written. And right there, beside a photo of me playing chess at the Berjaya Penang Hotel, was the book itself: CATUR. “Buku Bahasa Melayu pertama ni,” someone commented. “Legend,” wrote another. Aiyah, I’m so embarrassed to be called a legend.

There’s actually a story behind this book that I’ve never told anyone before—at least not until a few days ago when that same picture started circulating on WhatsApp too, and other people began noticing it. So finally, here’s the inside story of how CATUR came about.

It was way back in 1990 when two old friends, former classmates from our Penang Free School days, came to visit me at home. After some catching up, one of them raised the idea of me writing a chess book in Bahasa Malaysia. As far as we knew, nothing like it existed yet. Since I was already writing chess columns for The Star newspaper, they told me I’d be the most logical person to write such a book. By then, my columns had already been running for about 10 years. I’d also been the editor of a local chess magazine in English—also called CATUR—so they felt a book was a natural continuation.

But I protested: my command of Bahasa Malaysia wasn’t that great, and besides, I didn’t know any publisher. “No problem,” one of them said. He knew someone who wrote textbooks and workbooks for schools—and he was a chess player too. I asked who, and it turned out to be Saw Boo Pheng, whom I knew very well since 1972 when we both played for our respective schools (he was from Technical Institute) in the first-ever Penang Schools Sports Council (MSSPP) chess team competition.

The idea was that I’d write the manuscript in English, and Boo Pheng would translate it into BM. Once he agreed and the publisher came on board, we were on our way!

I spent weeks piecing the book together manually. This was pre-Internet, pre-chess software. Fortunately, desktop computers had already appeared, and I worked on an Intel x286 machine using an early version of Microsoft Word. I’d write one chapter at a time, print it, deliver it to Boo Pheng for translation, then retype the BM version into the computer. It was painstaking work.

The second challenge was creating the chess diagrams manually. I managed to get ready-made diagram stickers from a friend in Singapore. I’d sit with a tweezer in hand, peeling off the miniscule chess pieces and placing them on a blank board. Everything had to be labelled precisely so the publisher could match diagrams with the correct text.

Once the manuscript was done, I sent it to the publisher to be retyped into their system, which was another headache. What if the type-setters made mistakes? What if the mistakes were not spotted by the proof-readers? And sure enough, all that happened. I had to go through draft after draft—first, second, third—making corrections everywhere. Eventually, we cleaned up all the obvious mistakes. If there were any left, well, not intentional lah. We really did try our best.

When CATUR finally went to print, I was thrilled to see it on bookstore shelves despite having some trepidation about the cover design. I had not known at all that the publisher had planned to use a picture of Jimmy Liew who was at that time Malaysia's foremost chess player. Did they contact Jimmy for permission? I don’t remember how well it sold, but for the next three or four years, Boo Pheng and I received our modest royalty cheques. It didn't make us rich though. Lim Eng Siang was also credited as a third contributor, though in truth, his only role was to propose the idea in the first place! But I couldn't leave him out. For old times sake, I couldn't do that.

Then in 1994, the publisher came back and asked for an English version of CATUR. But alamak, I no longer had my original English manuscript! Back then, we stored everything on floppy diskettes and mine had gotten corrupted. So what to do? I had to retranslate the BM version back into English. The irony of it. Of course, the job was so much easier and Boo Pheng didn’t need to be involved at all. This was also a chance for me to correct mistakes spotted after the Bahasa Malaysia version had come out.

I finished the retranslation and emailed everything to the publisher. Since the manuscript was now fully digital, production became much easier. The English version, Taking Up Chess, came out in 1995 with all three of us still credited as authors.

Looking back now, I never imagined that CATUR would still be remembered after all these years, let alone spoken of fondly by people I’ve never met. It was just something I did with a couple of old friends, cobbled together with stickers, printouts and a lot of patience. A labour of love, we didn’t have grand ambitions....just the hope that it might be useful to someone starting out in chess, especially Malay-speaking students in schools.

That it turned out to be the first local chess book in Bahasa Malaysia was, in some ways, secondary to the experience of making it. But now, to hear that someone in Kelantan picked up the game from this book nearly three decades ago, and still remembers it, is both humbling and gratifying. We never know which of our efforts will last or leave an impression. Sometimes, we just do what needs to be done at the moment. If it happens to light a spark in someone else’s journey, that’s a bonus.

So yes, CATUR might’ve started small, but it seems to have travelled far in its own quiet way. I’m thankful for that.

ADDENDUM: As can be read from the glossary in the book (glosari in BM), the translations of the chess terms from English to Bahasa Malaysia were fairly straightforward except for one term. What should we call the Bishop in BM? To us, Gajah (elephant) didn’t feel quite right, despite its historical origins. The modern-day chess piece clearly depicts a bishop’s hat, not an elephant. Even chess diagrams use the bishop’s mitre to represent the piece. So we decided to go with Biskop instead. We felt it would cause less confusion for the readers. And after all these years, I still wonder whether we made the right call.

Welcome sight

What a welcome sight! Last night's full moon at 10.03pm. I had thought that I would miss seeing the full moon again as I was at the Berjaya Penang Hotel where the window looked out in a different direction from the moon's current path in the sky. But now that I'm home, wow!

Raw passion

Finally, I’m back home after a really memorable 10 days of playing chess in the 23rd ASEAN+ Age-Group Chess Championships, and I think I’m already suffering withdrawal symptoms from the event! There’s that dull, hollow feeling that comes when the adrenaline drains away. I haven’t felt quite like this in decades. Being away from the family, it almost felt like going to camp: getting immersed in chess, surrounded by like-minded folks and just enjoying the company of friends. And when it’s all over, the mind aches a little. 

Impromptu meeting of the Arbiters and assistants before the Blitz event

I’d been staying at the Berjaya Penang Hotel, which also doubled as the competition venue. So thankfully, I was spared the daily commute from Bukit Mertajam. Even so, I was worn out at the end of each day, not least because of the long games and keeping people like Hamid, Miki, Berik and a few others entertained. Some days, we even ventured out for lunch or dinner despite meals being provided by the hotel.

I didn’t play in the Rapid event as I had an eye check-up scheduled at the Penang General Hospital. Something I absolutely couldn’t miss. Appointments like these are precious. This one had been booked since last year! The sheer volume of out-patients means follow-ups now stretch into annual events. But it was worth it. The medical officer said my eye pressure was excellent. The only catch is that my next appointment is in nine months' time!

After the check-up, I rushed back to the hotel and found that the Rapid event had paused for lunch after the three morning rounds. Play would resume at 2pm. Great, at least I’d be able to catch the remaining four rounds.

Halfway through the afternoon, the Tournament Director, Jonathan, came up and asked whether I could confirm helping with the Blitz event as an Arbiter. Of course, I was delighted to assist. So there I was, yesterday morning (Thursday), showing up as the Arbiter for the Seniors 65+ section. Were they surprised. Only two days earlier, I was playing chess amongst them. Only nine players in the field, which meant a straightforward round-robin format. The top four players agreed to draw quickly among themselves and focused on collecting points from the rest.

A disabled but brave Too Pi He playing in the Under-12 rapid tournament

I was slightly relieved that there were no disputes in my section except for one moment when Rico made an illegal knight move. He immediately admitted the mistake, so I just added one minute to his opponent’s clock. Nothing too technical to deal with.

But elsewhere in the hall, where the kids were battling it out, it was total chaos, both on and off the boards. The blitz format, with just a few minutes on the clock, always brings out a different kind of energy. The younger players were all pumped up, hands flying, pieces rattling, clocks being slapped. You’d think we were in a market. Illegal moves, dropped flags, hands being raised to call the arbiters over, background noises from players whose games have finished and awaiting the next round. The arbiters certainly had their hands full. 

Still, beneath all the noise and flurry, I could see the raw passion. These kids took their games seriously. Some jumped up after a win, others sat frozen in disbelief after a loss. There might have been a few tears shed too. I could almost feel the energy radiating from the tables. It was messy, loud and at times overwhelming. But it was also exactly what the ASEAN+ age-group chess championships needed to close off a full 10 days of competition: fast, furious games and full of heart. Just very glad my section didn’t need babysitting.

All in all, I'm tired after all the excitement, but it's the good kind of tiredness.

Nepal 2025, Day Six (I: Swoyambhu mahachaitya)

Nepal offers a traveller three choices: to come as an adventurer, a pilgrim or a mere tourist. For me, the first is already out of the question. Ten years ago, maybe I could still have managed a bit of adventure — but now? No way. Those days are behind me.

In Lumbini, our presence was clearly that of pilgrims. For myself and the rest of our Nandaka Vihara group, we had come to visit the sacred sites associated with the life of the Buddha. But here in Kathmandu, the tone of our trip shifted. We could now allow ourselves to act more like tourists.

Our guide had already taken us into the heart of Thamel the evening before — that lively, colourful district packed with shops, cafés and restaurants. It was dinner and light shopping for us. I honestly can’t recall everything that Saw See bought — lots of soaps, I think — mostly as gifts for friends and relatives back home. 

As for me, I had my eye on a singing bowl. It was quite something to see the sheer variety on offer: from small palm-sized bowls to enormous ones you could stand inside; from factory-made items to finely handcrafted pieces. I eventually settled on a five-inch handcrafted bowl which set me back NPR3,900. A fair deal, in my opinion. And tonight, we would be heading back to Thamel again for a second round of last-minute shopping before returning to the Gokarna Forest Resort.

Even though we were now more tourists than pilgrims, temple visits remained firmly on our itinerary. This day was particularly packed. We had four major sites to cover: Swayambhunath Mahachaitya, Patan Durbar Square, the Golden Temple, and the Boudhanath Stupa. A tall order for one day — so best to get started!

If the name Swayambhunath Mahachaitya is a bit of a tongue-twister, just call it by its more familiar name, the Monkey Temple, which is rather fitting, considering the number of monkeys roaming about freely. One has to be cautious, especially with food. These monkeys are bold and not the least bit shy. One of our group members lost her ice-cream in the blink of an eye, snatched away by a cheeky monkey who looked rather pleased with himself.

The temple complex itself is perched on a hilltop west of Kathmandu and is one of Nepal’s oldest religious sites, dating back to the fifth century. It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and still very much a living place of devotion. Entry was NPR200 per person, and from there it was a climb, all 365 steps to the top. Along the way, sweeping views of Kathmandu unfolded before us. It was a lovely, breezy day, and the city looked calm from that height.

And what a sight awaited us at the summit: the stupa, a grand white dome with a golden spire and Buddha’s all-seeing eyes gazing out in every direction. Flags in the Buddhist colours fluttered in the wind, and the air was filled with the scent of incense and the occasional chanting and accompanying bells. Surrounding the stupa were shrines, statues and rows of spinning prayer wheels. Souvenir stalls lined the walkways, selling everything from tiny Buddha statues to mandala coasters, prayer wheels, chunky bead bracelets and singing bowls. Bargaining was part of the fun — good-natured and expected.

Swayambhu Mahachaitya had everything: spirituality, scenery, shopping and cheeky monkeys. It’s a place where ancient tradition meets vibrant daily life. For all its colour, noise and movement, it still offered a feeling that stayed with you long after you’ve climbed back down those steps.

A maddening 10 days

My little campaign in the Senior 65+ section of the 23rd ASEAN+ Age-Group Chess Championships has come to an end. After the free day last Saturday, I managed 2.5 points from my final four rounds and clawed back a bit of my earlier deficit. Those four points were pretty valuable and helped me finish in a respectable enough spot.

I dropped about 70 to 80 rating points in the process – part of the plan, really, as I’ve felt for a while that my pre-championship rating was a bit inflated and didn’t quite reflect where my chess standard is at nowadays. It’s still too high, which means I’m not eligible to play in some of the local FIDE-rated tournaments with rating caps at 1600 or 1800. Getting down to that level’s going to take a fair bit more playing, and to be honest, the chances to do that are few and far between. So with the rating still a touch too high in my opinion and the opportunities drying up, maybe it’s time for me to go into hibernation mode again.

We had quite the memorable closing ceremony after the Standard Chess events wrapped up. Our special guest was Ramli Ngah Talib, who’s just been appointed Penang’s Head of State. Back in the day, he was the Malaysian Chess Federation president from 2007 till Dec 2016, so a lot of the chess folks knew him well. Despite the state protocol staff and police trying to keep things orderly, he got a hero’s welcome when he turned up at the Che Hoon Khor Moral Uplifting Society for the closing and official dinner. The current MCF committee were all over the official car as it arrived, while we from the Penang Chess Association simply hung back and let them have their moment. We had our own photo op with the Penang Governor later – no fuss, no drama.

Me, I was actually more concerned with keeping an eye out for Ernest Zacharevic’s arrival at the dinner, and I missed a medal call. I had gone back and forth with his rep for ages to get the green light to use his iconic Children on a Bicycle artwork for the Championships. A special invite had gone out to him, and I didn’t want to miss him when he walked in. When I brought him into the hall, he was treated like a bit of a celebrity. The Malaysians seemed more flustered by his presence than by Ramli’s! I couldn’t sit at the same table as Ernest, but I did some quick shuffling and made sure he was seated next to Berik Balgabaev, the FIDE President’s representative. Thought they might hit it off – Berik’s from Kazakhstan and Ernest is Lithuanian. Both ex-Soviet states, so maybe they’d find some common ground and not get too bored with the evening.

All in all, I’d say the closing ceremony and dinner went off brilliantly. There were a few minor hiccups, but nothing worth stressing over. Hats off to the organising team – and yes, I was part of it, but still – the real heavy lifting was done by Ooi Gim Ewe, Steven Hoh, and Chong Kean Foong. They handled everything from rooming and transport changes to endless hotel and protocol meetings. On the technical side, Jonathan Chuah was a proper workhorse as Tournament Director. Not an easy job working with the Chief Arbiter, all the arbiters and assistants, and the demands that go with the job.

The Championships aren’t quite done yet. There are two more days to go – today’s the Rapid Chess competition, and tomorrow’s the Blitz to wrap everything up. I was meant to play in the Rapid today, but instead I’m at the outpatient eye clinic at Penang General Hospital. An eye check-up I couldn’t miss – waited too long for the appointment! But tomorrow I’ll be back at the Championships, not as a player, but in my role as International Arbiter, helping out with the Blitz event.

It’s been a maddening 10 days, that’s for sure!

Senior chess moments

I’ve been rather quiet the last few days and will likely remain so until the 11th or 12th of this month. Reason is because I’m competing in the Senior 65+ age-group category of the 23rd ASEAN+ Age-Group Chess Championships at the Berjaya Penang Hotel. This is one of the very few age-group events that give recognition to those senior members of the chess board. People tend to think of age-group competitions as limited to those age groups below 20 years old, but I had always contended that age-group events can be for adult chess players too. 

ASEAN Chess Confederation's 25th anniversary celebrations
at the 23rd Age-Group chess championships. There wasn't any
competition in 2001 and 2002, that is, the Covid-19 years

Actually, I didn’t plan to be playing in this ASEAN+ tournament at all. My role was to take charge of the media releases, but several weeks ago, I was being urged by the Penang Chess Association committee members to play since the response for that age-group category was rather poor. I did a lot of soul-searching. Should I play or not? Five years ago, I would unhesitatingly have said yes to it. But five years is a pretty long time, and I’ve found that my chess abilities have taken a hit as I grew older. 

Nevertheless, the urge to play remained strong despite my reluctance. However, the enticing bit was that for the PCA committee members, the tournament was free. No need to fork out the money in order to play. And it’s not exactly cheap. Plus, I get to stay at the tournament hotel for the event’s full duration. That sealed the deal, actually. Not having to travel back and forth from Bukit Mertajam meant less stress on my constitution. And that’s how I ended up as a participant in the Seniors 65+ section, making up a field of 12 players. Meantime, the Seniors 50+ section had attracted 20 players. A very decent number!

However, before the championships started, the organisers decided to combine both Seniors age-groups and came up with a new list of 30 participants. So here at this event, I was wearing two hats. The first was as an official in charge of the media, and the second as a participant. That being so, it forced me to surrender my mobile phone outside the tournament hall as regulations do not permit players to carry mobile phones or even wear wristwatches while playing. The regulations are quite strict to prevent participants from cheating. Even exiting the tournament hall to go to the washrooms or leaving the hall after the games are over would require the players to be body-scanned electronically.

So how have I been faring in the first three days of playing? Well, the first round went disastrously wrong as I lost. The second and third games were drawn. In the fourth round, I lost a second time needlessly by walking into a one-move checkmate. I was having the upper hand in the game, actually—until I tried too hard to capture a pawn, and that was my undoing. Fifth game, drawn again. So from five games, I’ve collected only 1½ points. Quite miserable, this contribution of rating points to other people. And there are four more rounds to go. How will I fare against my future opponents? Stay tuned to my further misadventures.