So finally, we’ve returned home from a 17-day jaunt through Nepal and northern India. It was a journey that carried us along the Buddhist pilgrimage trail and then onward to some of India’s most famous heritage sites, the sort of places I had long read about but never quite imagined visiting in a single sweep. We moved from the bustle of Kathmandu to the chill of Nagarkot, then down the plains to Lumbini, Shravasti and Kushinagar, before looping through Rajgir and Bodhgaya and ending with the more familiar tourist circuit of Varanasi, Agra, Jaipur and Delhi.
For the pilgrimage part of the trip, we stood at the very spot where the Buddha was born — and I felt especially privileged to have visited it twice within a year — visited where he attained enlightenment and walked the grounds where he delivered his first sermon. We also made our way to the places associated with his life, his passing into parinibbāna and his cremation. Each site made more meaningful by the slow rhythm of travel and the shared sense of purpose among the group.
The heritage section of the tour felt like stepping into another story altogether. We found ourselves gazing at the perfect symmetry of the Taj Mahal in Agra, wandering through the great Amber Fort in Jaipur and looking up at the centuries-old Qutub Minar in Delhi. Much of the time though, we were on the move. Long stretches in bus coaches and a seven-hour train ride from Varanasi to Agra.
Travel days blurred into one another, but there were moments that stood out. One morning, before sunrise, we boarded a boat for a dawn cruise on the Ganges. The river was already alive with activity. We saw cremations taking place along the ghats, the smoke curling into the sky, and further downstream, Hindus stepping into the cold water to perform their ritual cleansing.
At some point I hope to write more fully about our experiences, but for now I should say that the hotels were generally very good, with only one or two that were less than ideal. Still, each added its own stamp on the journey. We were careful with our meals, eating mostly in hotels or well-established restaurants, keeping an eye out for anything that might upset the stomach, and guarding our drinking water like treasure. Before we left, we’d dutifully gone for our influenza, typhoid and hepatitis jabs, so at least we had some protection. Even so, we weren’t spared entirely. Somewhere along the way, the coughs began. It turned into a chorus because it wasn’t only us but almost everyone on the bus, all 38 of us. The only people who seemed completely unaffected were the guides and drivers, who moved through the dust and pollution with the unbothered air of seasoned veterans. They rarely wore masks and breathed in the city smog as though it were nothing more than a mild inconvenience.
Still, despite the coughs and the long hours on the road, it was a marvellous journey. One of those trips that stays with you long after the suitcases have been unpacked and the laundry sorted, and already I find myself wanting to shape the memories into something more permanent on this blog.







































