Hickory on Penang Hill

We first learned about Hickory On Penang Hill just before the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020 and had always wanted to experience this new guesthouse. Yet, the opportunity did not arise until last Monday when friends of my wife visited Penang. Casually, we had suggested a visit to Penang Hill and a stay at Hickory and before we even realised it, her friends had promptly booked an overnight stay for all of us. Here, I shall relate some of our personal experiences while staying in this guesthouse.

Image from Hickory On Penang Hill's facebook page

Arriving at the Lower Tunnel Station by the Penang Hill funicular train around 4.10 pm, we swaggered a bit with our luggage and, after a slow and cautious 10-minute walk, found ourselves at the doorstep of the guesthouse. Four groups, including us, were accommodated in this almost-century-old bungalow. 

The primary structure is a double-storeyed building featuring two guest rooms on the ground floor and four on the upper level. Behind it are single-storey extensions, once serving as servants' quarters but now transformed into additional guest rooms. A discreet staircase in a separate extension descends to a nearly unnoticed small open basement, repurposed for storage and housing a small library. Regrettably, few individuals venture into this area. My curiosity led me there, and I promptly bumped my head on the low ceiling. I found the space so quiet and secluded that even the intriguing array of book titles could not entice me to linger there for long.

Room #6, where we stayed
(Image from Hickory On Penang Hill's facebook page)

The present owner, Raj, purchased the bungalow a decade ago and had dedicated the first five years on its upgrade before deciding on transforming it into a guesthouse. The bungalow was originally named Dulci Domum, a Latin phrase meaning Sweet Home but after the Second World War, it adopted the name Hickory which has endured since then. 

Perched at an elevation of 650 metres (2,100 feet) on the eastern slope of Penang Hill, Hickory sits on half an acre of secluded woodland and manicured lawns. The lush green surroundings echo with the occasional sounds of birds, monkeys, squirrels and flowing water. With 14 guest rooms catering to solo traveller and groups alike, ours was a double room that featured a queen-size bed which opened up into a cozy living room on the ground floor. Four rattan easy chairs and a decorated Christmas tree added to the homely ambience. 

The open basement with its small library

We have visited Penang Hill countless times and each time, the panoramic views from the top never ceased to amaze us. So it was too from Hickory's front lawn. The breathtaking vista stretched from Gurney Drive on the left to Bayan Lepas on the right, encompassing George Town's promontory, the KOMTAR tower, Glugor, Ayer Itam, the Kek Lok Si temple complex, Jerejak island, Bayan Baru and the two Penang Bridges. In the distance, the coastline of Province Wellesley with the central Bukit Mertajam hill, completed the picture.

For those considering the funicular railway journey to Hickory, tickets are purchased at the Bottom Station. That's where the adventure starts. But a cautionary note: the train only stops at the Lower Tunnel Station once per hour. It used to be on a half-hourly basis but with the increasing crowds, the trains now travel nonstop in order to move as many passengers as possible in the shortest time. If one needs to stop at any station between the Top and Bottom stations, one has to catch the train that departs on the hour, Miss that, and it is another 60 minutes wait till the next available one. 

One should board the front cabin of the train so that the driver could be informed to stop at the Lower Tunnel Station. After alighting at this station, follow the Lower Tunnel Road for about five minutes until the gates of Hickory are reached. With direction signs along the way, it is almost unlikely of getting lost. But be aware that the road is not level and there are some inclines along the way. Alternatively, if 60 minutes or more is too long to wait for a train, then take the regular train to the Top Station and enjoy a 15-minute stroll down Bypath A and Bypath F to reach Hickory. Whichever way one takes to reach the guesthouse, the roads are not completely user-friendly to anyone whose mobility is challenged. But these are essentially part of the Penang Hill adventure, are they not?

Similarly, the descending train will not stop automatically at the Lower Tunnel Station to pick up any passenger. One has to call the station master on the intercom to make a request and the train will stop, again only once an hour. The intercom is located in a box at the station. Pick up the handset and press the number "3".

I shall add here that the food at Hickory is very varied and good. We tucked ourselves into an outdoors steamboat dinner while noticing that some other guests had plumbed for a barbeque on the lawn. The weather turned wet and cool as we ate but we hardly noticed, what with the steamboat heating us up sufficiently. We were up early the next morning to watch the sunrise and later, had a choice of British, Swiss and local flavours for breakfast.   

Our steamboat dinner. Standing beside us was Raj, the owner of Hickory On Penang Hill

What more can one ask for? A wide array of coffee, tea and other beverages. And by the way, the beer's in the refrigerator

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