Sri Lanka: Day 3, Part 1 (Anuradhapura)

That's me in my white sarong, next to Saw See. It was acquired the day before when we were still staying in the Na Uyana Aranya. The reason why I was even wearing a sarong at all for the first time in my life was because my dormitory mates wanted the four of us to make a unified impression when we visited Anuradhapura on the third day of our spiritual trip to Sri Lanka. Normally when visiting the Buddhist sacred spots in Sri Lanka, it was a standard requirement for the visitor to wear an all-white outfit. That was what we were advised back in Penang. Get your white clothes ready, because visiting some places in Anuradhapura and Kandy required it. That was why underneath my sarong was my original white pants. But....we noticed many visitors not adhering to the all-white rule and they were still allowed into the compound to partake in the religious activities. Maybe as visitors to a foreign land we were trying too hard to comply with the traditional norm. With my sarong though, I wasn't out of place in Sri Lanka but I think that I looked a complete nerd wearing it, right? Anyway, it was a priceless experience. Ha ha....

Anuradhapura is some 100 kilometres from the Na Uyana Aranya. Although we had left the forest monastery in the wee hours of the morning, it still took a bit under three hours to make this journey. We could have arrived at our first destination in Anuradhapoura, the Ruwanweliseha, earlier but the bus was forced into a detour when some roads leading to this ancient landmark was flooded. But eventually by 7.15am we were all set to enter the compound. The Ruwanweliseya is immensely huge. One of my travel companions was so overcome by the sight that he openly shed tears of joy. The structure dates back over 2,200 years and is one of the tallest monuments in Sri Lanka. The white dome stands at 338 feet tall with a circumference of 950 feet. It sits on a high terrace surrounded by elephant sculptures. It contains an untold wealth of Buddha relics unknown to the common man. Dotted around the landscape are several monasteries and shrines.

The first thing we did on arrival was find a place to relieve ourselves after the long journey without any toilet break. That done, it was time to light the oil lamps at the fence, after which Bhante Aranagavesi led us to a spot to collect our offering for the morning pooja. Thereafter, we entered the vahalkada, or main entrance, and began walking clockwise around the stupa until we located some empty tables to place our offering of a milk pot and flowers together with some incense sticks. While Bhante Dhammasubho and Bhante Aranagavesi led the group through some chanting and brief meditation before the great stupa, However, I decided to explore the place a bit on my own. If I don't do it, the opportunity would be lost forever. The sound of some musicians caught my ears and a procession of devotees holding up a long train of orange cloth soon came my way. Somehow, there was this elderly woman who looked at me. With the slightest motion with her eye, she invited me to come over and hold the cloth. I did so; I touched the cloth and then brought my hand to my chest. The procession continued and I left to retrace the steps back to my companions who by now had finished with their contemplation and was getting ready to leave. True enough, there was no time to enjoy the place further. And as we left, I noticed that the orange cloth that I had held briefly earlier was now being wrapped around the dome of the stupa. So that's what it was for! We were hurried back to the bus to continue with our journey. And what's that? Breakfast, of course! A vegetarian feast of milk rice, string hoppers, plain and egg hoppers, sliced bread, salted fish, noodles, rice, lentils and dhall curry among other things. We were famished after the Ruwanweliseya experience.

A short distance away was the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi Temple, site of the first Bodhi tree in Sri Lanka. The tree was grown from a sapling of the original Bodhi tree under which Siddhartha Gautama attained enlightenment in Bodh Gaya, India. Sangamitta Theri, the daughter of Emperor Ashoka, had brought it over from India some 2,300 years ago (third century BC). The Bodhi tree at the Nandaka Vihara in Bukit Mertajam was itself grown from a sapling of this tree in Anuradhapura. We spent only about half an hour here but during this time, we were shown around the grounds of the temple. We looked up in awe at the Bodhi tree and its leafy branches. It was a long walk to and from the car park, and we were required to deposit our shoes before entering the temple. In Anuradhapura, we were required to do this several times at several places, and as the day wore on, the temperature kept getting higher until it was an ordeal to walk barefooted on the very hot ground. By then too, I had discarded the white sarong as it was hindering my wide strides. 

At the Sandahiruseya, our third stop of the day, the ground was really hot and we could hardly walk properly on the granite. The sand, however, proved to be a relief and it was considerably cooler. We skipped from the main stupa to the small shrine beside it. Sandhahiruseya is the second-largest hemispherical stupa in Sri Lanka. Newly built marvel crafted by the Sri Lankan Army Corps as a poignant tribute to the memory of their fallen comrades from the Sri Lankan Civil War with the Tamil Tigers. Upgrade of the place is still ongoing and we were brought round to see stone carvings on the Buddha's life. However, it was still very much work-in-progress with no indication when it can complete. Apart from the Stupa, what intrigued me the most were the Buddha statues in the shrine hall. Five statues depicting the five mudras or gestures of Buddha. The hall also possessed a golden stupa with its Buddha relic.

And our final stop in Anuradhapura was at the Thuparama Vihara. This place is considered as one of the oldest stupas in Sri Lanka and holds great historical and religious significance. It is believed to have been built in the third century BC and Buddha's right collarbone relic is believed to be enshrined here. Over the centuries, Thuparamaya underwent several renovations and rebuilds due to natural disasters and human activities. The current restored stupa, surrounded by rock pillars, other monastic structures and ancient ruins, preserves the essence of its ancient design. 

To be continued ....

Ruwanweliseya

The flooded compound of a house

Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi Temple

Sandahiruseya

Abhaya Mudra (Fearlessness Gesture): The right hand is raised, with the palm facing outward. Signifies fearlessness, protection, and peace. It is often associated with the Buddha's encouragement to dispel fear.

Dharmachakra Mudra (Wheel-turning Gesture): Both hands are held at chest level, with the index fingers and thumbs forming circles. The remaining fingers are extended. Symbolises the turning of the wheel of dharma, representing the Buddha's first sermon and the continuous cycle of teachings.

Dhyana Mudra (Meditation Gesture): Both hands rest in the lap, palms facing upwards with the right hand on top of the left. Symbolises deep meditation and concentration, representing the path to enlightenment.

Bhumisparsha Mudra (Earth-Touching Gesture): The right hand extends downward, reaching toward the ground with fingers pointing to the earth. Represents the moment of enlightenment when the Buddha touched the earth to bear witness to his awakening.

Vitarka Mudra (Teaching Gesture): The right hand is raised, and the index finger and thumb form a circle, while the other fingers are extended. Represents the transmission of knowledge and teaching of the dharma. It is commonly associated with discussions and explanations of Buddhist doctrines.

Thuparama Vihara