SS Quah's Anything Goes: Sri Lanka: Day 6, Part 2 (Colombo)

Wednesday 29 May 2024

Sri Lanka: Day 6, Part 2 (Colombo)

Having left Negombo, the bus driver dropped us off at One Galle Face, one of Colombo's biggest and newest shopping centres. We went in search of food and ended up in the food court. However, we weren’t very impressed with the range. In the end, we opted for Singapore chicken rice. Imagine that—two Malaysians, my wife and I, eating Singapore chicken rice in a Sri Lankan mall, as if there was nothing better available.

But we did discover that the shopping mall offered a premium shopping experience—for tourists, mainly—with mostly high-end stores, dining options and entertainment facilities. The architecture is modern, and the layout is spacious which provided a comfortable and luxurious atmosphere. We wandered into a souvenir shop and, against our initial plans, picked up two exquisite Buddha statues for our son and daughter. Eventually, they would have to move into their own homes on Penang island and in Kuala Lumpur and we wanted them to have their own Buddha statues. When we left the mall in the evening, the first thing that caught our eyes was the landmark Lotus Tower in Colombo. This iconic structure, completed in 2019, is the tallest in South Asia and boasts the highest observatory. Standing at 350 metres, it features an ever-changing display of LED lights that mesmerised us by metamorphosing its colours regularly. The tower symbolises Sri Lanka’s development and offers panoramic views of the city and the ocean, although we did not go there.

With about three hours to spare before heading to the Bandaranaike international airport, we pondered our options. Naturally, in the company of monks, visiting more temples seemed inevitable. We promptly made our way to the Gangarama Maha Vihara which felt more like a museum than a temple. Despite it being nighttime, the temple welcomed visitors. At the front yard, we were greeted by a large Chinese Kuan Yin statue, and further in, a statue of Kuan Kong, the God of War. Guarding the entrance to the modern building were two granite lions, evoking the impression of a Chinese temple in the heart of Colombo. However, statues of Indian deities, such as Lord Ganesha and Lord Vishnu, were also there. Upon entering, the ambiance shifted to a distinctly Buddhist tone with ivory carvings and countless Buddha statues of varying sizes from different countries displayed throughout.

We passed by a unique exhibit honouring their temple elephant known as the Gangarama Raja. The elephant had served the temple for more than 60 years by carrying the casket of sacred Buddhist relics during the annual Navam Perahera processions. When it died in 2013, it had lived for 67 years and the remains were taxidermised and displayed within the temple complex. However, it is not the whole elephant that visitors see but only the mounted head, tusks and tail attached to a life-size replica of the body and limbs.

Further in, we reached an inner courtyard dominated by an imposing Bodhi tree, its tall trunk and thick branches stretching upwards and outwards. Planted in the late 19th century during the tenure of the temple's founder, this tree has stood for more than a century. We followed custom by walking clockwise around the tree with our palms together. The temple’s main sanctuary, a space adorned in soft yellow hues, features a massive Buddha statue in meditation, flanked by statuettes of celestial beings. The ceilings are decorated with vibrant pastel paintings, and the columns intricately festooned with traditional Sri Lankan art.

From the Gangarama Maha Vihara, we took a short walk to the Gangarama Sima Malaka which jutted out into Beira Lake. While still part of the bigger Gangarama complex, it is now separated from the main building by a public road. There are three platforms over water, each featuring numerous seated Buddha statues in various positions. The central platform houses a meditation shelter while one of the side platforms hosts a grand Bodhi Tree which, I sure, is almost as old as the previous one we saw. At the four corners of this platform are small shrines dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu, Ganesha and another. Additionally, a Kuan Yin shrine sits at the temple's entrance, with another statue within the complex. Around us, we marvelled at the night lights from the multi-storey hotel just across the road from the lake. We spent less time here than at the main temple complex before finally heading to the airport.

As my narrative draws to a close, I must mention that the flight home was uneventful. However, upon arrival at Penang International Airport, some of my travelling companions discovered to their chagrin that their luggage was damaged again. Considerable time followed to fill forms for insurance claims, and although a curious Customs officer initially took interest in our group, he eventually shifted his attention to the next batch of arrivals at the X-ray machines.

One Galle Face shopping mall