This morning as I broke open a twa pau to show its juicy contents to friends on my Whatsapp chat group, I thought back to the tiam sim I used to enjoy in Penang during my youth. The Chinese characters for this delectable cuisine is 點心. In Mandarin, it is called diǎn xīn; in Cantonese, dim sam, from which we derive the English dim sum, but in Penang, with Hokkien spoken at home, we always called it tiam sim. Same Chinese characters, same meaning, but a different voice. It’s one of those charming quirks of Penang speech. Cantonese words and food names slip into the Hokkien we speak until they felt like ours. So while Cantonese teahouse culture gave the world dim sum, in Penang the term tiam sim is rooted firmly in my own place and memory.

Tiam sim has always carried with it more than just the taste of food. It is a story of culture, travel and companionship that began centuries ago in southern China. Tiam sim literally means “to touch the heart,” and that name alone gives a clue to its original purpose. It was never meant to be a full meal but rather a light refreshment, something to accompany a pot of tea.The practice first took root along the old Silk Road during the Song Dynasty. Traders and travellers, weary from their journeys, would pause at roadside teahouses scattered across Guangdong. At first, these places offered only tea to soothe the body. Over time, teahouse owners added small snacks of steamed buns, pastries and little bites to fortify the traveller without weighing them down. That modest addition slowly became a tradition: tea paired with small bites that touched both heart and stomach.
Cantonese chefs refined this into an art form over the centuries. What began as a few snacks grew into an entire repertoire—siew mai, char siew pau, egg tarts, spring rolls—steamed, fried or baked, carefully fitted into bamboo baskets. The teahouses themselves transformed from roadside stops into lively social halls. Families and friends gathered not just for tea, but for the experience: table chatter, porcelain cups, steaming baskets arriving on the table. This became known as yum cha, “to drink tea,” but everyone knew it meant sharing our time and food.
When I was growing up in Seang Tek Road during the 1960s, my first memories of this food culture came from the Seng Kee Restaurant on Dato’ Kramat Road, not more than a hundred metres from my home. In the mornings, Seng Kee came alive with a bustling tiam sim trade. People crowded in for steaming trays of dumplings, buns and savoury rice dishes before heading off to work. By late afternoon the restaurant shifted to popular noodle dishes like sar hor fun or yee mee, but mornings were always tiam sim.
Tho Yuen Restaurant down Campbell Street had a more refined reputation. It was one of the grand old Cantonese restaurants of Penang, its tiam sim considered more traditional and authentic. The Tai Tong Restaurant in Cintra Street was different again, known for its lively atmosphere and slightly more modern approach. Where Tho Yuen leaned towards refinement, Tai Tong was brash, busy and always full. In comparison, Seng Kee sat somewhere between the two: less formal than Tho Yuen, not as boisterous as Tai Tong, but with a character all its own.

For all its closeness to home, I don’t recall eating in with my father more than five times in my youth. On those rare occasions, we would order dumplings such as char siew pau, bak pau or the very large twa pau. Alongside these were other favourites like lor mai kai, siew mai and kau chee, all washed down with steaming hot Chinese tea poured into porcelain cups. More often, my routine was to pop in early in the morning and buy takeaway before school. The twa pau in particular was a hefty, filling bun packed with chunky chicken and pork, a slice of lap cheong, a Chinese mushroom, a quarter of a hardboiled egg and generous thin slices of jicama cut into half-inch squares. It was a meal in itself, so solid that one bun could keep me going until recess.
There was also the curious case of kau chee siew mai. As a tiam sim item, it is probably non-existent but a muddling of names between the siew mai and the kau chee, two different types of dumplings. The siew mai are the open-faced steamed dumplings, filled with ground pork and sometimes prawns, and topped with crab roe although nowadays this is replaced by a dot of edible red dye. They are cylindrical shaped with exposed filling at the top. The kau chee are crescent-shaped, fully enclosed steamed dumplings with various fillings such as pork, prawns, cabbage, chives, etc. Whenever kau chee siew mai was ordered, what appeared before us were two separate steaming bamboo baskets of siew mai and kau chee. And then there was a small quirk of dining habits in those days. When served a twa pau, many people wouldn’t actually eat the fluffy dough. Instead, they would split it open with chopsticks, carefully pick out the filling of pork, chicken and savoury gravy, and leave the thick white skin untouched. To them, the bread was heavy and bland, a burden to the stomach. The taste and the pleasure lay in the meat, and the pau skin was treated like nothing more than a wrapper to be discarded.
Seng Kee’s morning tiam sim was less about indulgence than about routine, comfort and memory. The taste of a twa pau with its rich mix of meats, mushroom and egg; the smell of tea brewing in chipped porcelain cups; the sight of bamboo baskets stacked high on metal trolleys—all of it stitched itself into the fabric of daily life.
The tradition, of course, is not exclusively Penang's. As Chinese communities moved abroad from mainland China, the tiam sim morsels travelled with them. Hong Kong, especially during the colonial years, embraced the tradition and it became a global tiam sim epicentre, and from there it spread further to Chinatowns in San Francisco, London, Sydney, Kuala Lumpur. Each place adapted slightly but held fast to its roots.
Today, tiam sim remains as food wrapped in memory and ritual. It is the sight of trolleys weaving between tables, steam rising from baskets, the tapping of fingers accompanying the pouring of tea. The spirit of community keeps the tiam sim tradition alive. From ancient teahouses along the Silk Road to Seng Kee in Penang, to modern venues across the globe, the tiam sim stays true to its name: it touches the heart.
And even now, whenever I bite into a twa pau or a mouthful of kau chee siew mai, that memory of mornings at Seng Kee comes rushing back. Memories of fresh steam, warm dough, early morning light. It is in those small, delicious moments that I find home, no matter where I am.