Wednesday, 29 May 2024

Sri Lanka: Day 6, Part 2 (Colombo)

Having left Negombo, the bus driver dropped us off at One Galle Face, one of Colombo's biggest and newest shopping centres. We went in search of food and ended up in the food court. However, we weren’t very impressed with the range. In the end, we opted for Singapore chicken rice. Imagine that—two Malaysians, my wife and I, eating Singapore chicken rice in a Sri Lankan mall, as if there was nothing better available.

But we did discover that the shopping mall offered a premium shopping experience—for tourists, mainly—with mostly high-end stores, dining options and entertainment facilities. The architecture is modern, and the layout is spacious which provided a comfortable and luxurious atmosphere. We wandered into a souvenir shop and, against our initial plans, picked up two exquisite Buddha statues for our son and daughter. Eventually, they would have to move into their own homes on Penang island and in Kuala Lumpur and we wanted them to have their own Buddha statues. When we left the mall in the evening, the first thing that caught our eyes was the landmark Lotus Tower in Colombo. This iconic structure, completed in 2019, is the tallest in South Asia and boasts the highest observatory. Standing at 350 metres, it features an ever-changing display of LED lights that mesmerised us by metamorphosing its colours regularly. The tower symbolises Sri Lanka’s development and offers panoramic views of the city and the ocean, although we did not go there.

With about three hours to spare before heading to the Bandaranaike international airport, we pondered our options. Naturally, in the company of monks, visiting more temples seemed inevitable. We promptly made our way to the Gangarama Maha Vihara which felt more like a museum than a temple. Despite it being nighttime, the temple welcomed visitors. At the front yard, we were greeted by a large Chinese Kuan Yin statue, and further in, a statue of Kuan Kong, the God of War. Guarding the entrance to the modern building were two granite lions, evoking the impression of a Chinese temple in the heart of Colombo. However, statues of Indian deities, such as Lord Ganesha and Lord Vishnu, were also there. Upon entering, the ambiance shifted to a distinctly Buddhist tone with ivory carvings and countless Buddha statues of varying sizes from different countries displayed throughout.

We passed by a unique exhibit honouring their temple elephant known as the Gangarama Raja. The elephant had served the temple for more than 60 years by carrying the casket of sacred Buddhist relics during the annual Navam Perahera processions. When it died in 2013, it had lived for 67 years and the remains were taxidermised and displayed within the temple complex. However, it is not the whole elephant that visitors see but only the mounted head, tusks and tail attached to a life-size replica of the body and limbs.

Further in, we reached an inner courtyard dominated by an imposing Bodhi tree, its tall trunk and thick branches stretching upwards and outwards. Planted in the late 19th century during the tenure of the temple's founder, this tree has stood for more than a century. We followed custom by walking clockwise around the tree with our palms together. The temple’s main sanctuary, a space adorned in soft yellow hues, features a massive Buddha statue in meditation, flanked by statuettes of celestial beings. The ceilings are decorated with vibrant pastel paintings, and the columns intricately festooned with traditional Sri Lankan art.

From the Gangarama Maha Vihara, we took a short walk to the Gangarama Sima Malaka which jutted out into Beira Lake. While still part of the bigger Gangarama complex, it is now separated from the main building by a public road. There are three platforms over water, each featuring numerous seated Buddha statues in various positions. The central platform houses a meditation shelter while one of the side platforms hosts a grand Bodhi Tree which, I sure, is almost as old as the previous one we saw. At the four corners of this platform are small shrines dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu, Ganesha and another. Additionally, a Kuan Yin shrine sits at the temple's entrance, with another statue within the complex. Around us, we marvelled at the night lights from the multi-storey hotel just across the road from the lake. We spent less time here than at the main temple complex before finally heading to the airport.

As my narrative draws to a close, I must mention that the flight home was uneventful. However, upon arrival at Penang International Airport, some of my travelling companions discovered to their chagrin that their luggage was damaged again. Considerable time followed to fill forms for insurance claims, and although a curious Customs officer initially took interest in our group, he eventually shifted his attention to the next batch of arrivals at the X-ray machines.

One Galle Face shopping mall




I would suppose mangosteen is also a popular fruit on this island 


Nothing like a friendly face in town!


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Gangarama Maha Vihara




The unmistakable Lord Ganesha

This one was more difficult to identify but I believe this to be Lord Vishnu






The Gangarama Raja













Gangarama Sima Malaka










Our picture taken with Bhante Neluve Aranagavesi


Monday, 27 May 2024

Sri Lanka: Day 6, Part 1 (Negombo)

This is the picture of the sunset which I couldn't locate for my previous episode on my Sri Lanka travels. Now that I've found it, here it is in all its glorious darkish red hues, topped with a moon in the sky. Two cameras are seldom alike; while the previous photo was taken with my Olympus EPL7, this one came from my Realme mobile phone.

By 6.30am, I was fully awake. Outside, the day was getting lighter. I opened the French window and stepped out to the sight of a huge swimming pool. Beautiful. Beyond it, a row of wooden fencing separated the hotel's land from the shoreline. Ah, the sea wasn’t too far off. I couldn’t see it in the darkness, but now, in broad daylight, the shoreline was very close indeed.

My thoughts went back to 26 December 2004 when the Indian Ocean tsunami struck. Sri Lanka was one of the coastal nations that bore the brunt of the waves. Although the southern part of the island was the most badly affected, the Negombo coastline also suffered considerable damage. I heard that around here, the water had risen about five feet. This Club Hotel Dolphin, being so close to the shore, was also in the path of the waves. My room was on the ground floor, which meant that if another bout of tall waves had hit here, I could have been in serious trouble. Not a very comfortable thought, indeed!

The whole lot of us, minus the monks, spent the hours between breakfast and lunch exploring the public beach and shoreline, walking a stretch of some 400 metres from south to north. Along the way, we appreciated different aspects of the area. To the north and south of the property were two seawalls, each about a hundred metres long, constructed from rocks and boulders. These seawalls, built to mitigate erosion and protect infrastructure from sea-related damage, must have been part of broader coastal management efforts. The definition of a seawall itself is that it is a structure built parallel to the coastline. designed to protect the land behind it from strong waves and prevent significant coastal erosion. It would be interesting to learn of their history. Were they constructed before or after the 2004 tsunami? 

So there are these two seawalls to the north and south of the Club Hotel Dolphin. Behind the seawalls, enough sand sediment had deposited to form a land formation resembling jetties. We noticed several small businesses had sprung up in these areas, offering local tours, jet-skiing services, tailoring and souvenirs.

Back at the hotel around 10:00 am, we decided to have tea or coffee, along with some apom and hoppers. I searched for a coffee machine but only found a dispenser with a rather tasteless brew, highlighting the lack of a coffee culture in Sri Lanka compared to Malaysia. If anyone thought that after this second round of breakfast we would be too full for lunch, well, they were mistaken because at 1.00pm, we all trooped back to the restaurant to have another fulfilling meal from their buffet spread. Only this time, of course we couldn't eat as much as the previous night.  

By 2pm, we had checked out of the hotel. We drove through Negombo town again and stopped along the main road to pop into a few shops. Porutota Road, as it is known, is a lively and popular area, bustling with tourist activity. The road is lined with an array of small budget hotels, restaurants, bars and shops, reflecting its vibrant nightlife and diversity from fresh seafood to traditional Sri Lankan dishes. Its proximity to Negombo Beach adds to its charm, making it a hub for beachgoers and travellers seeking both local culture and modern amenities. Friendly atmosphere and easy access to other tourist attractions makes this road a true Sri Lankan cultural melting pot. But the important question was what were we to do once we reached Colombo? Our flight back to Kuala Lumpur wasn’t until midnight, so we had quite a lot of time to kill. As it turned out, there were still plenty to do. I'll pause my narrative here and continue with the final episode later.

Club Hotel Dolphin























Saying goodbye to the Club Hotel Dolphin

Negombo


Porutota Road, which I believe is the main road in this part of Negombo