Yin and yang of Chinese temples

Over the Chinese New Year period, I had the occasion to visit several temples, the most important being the Kong Hock Keong, or Kuan Imm Temple, in Pitt Street. It’s always packed during the first few days of the festive season. This year, my family tried visiting on the first of this month, already the fourth day of Chinese New Year, but we were thwarted by road closures in the inner heritage zone, no thanks to the annual CNY beohooi (miaohui, 廟會) celebrations. Traffic was being diverted everywhere except into Pitt Street, also known as the Street of Harmony. But no worries—we made it there eventually. albeit a few days later. On Chap Goh Meh, after my worship session at the Swee Cheok Tong, I did what I always do: walked to Armenian Street to offer prayers at the Poh Hock Seah, the most prominent Tua Pek Kong Temple in the city.

A few days ago, after visiting these and other temples—both on the island and the mainland, including my neighbourhood Tua Pek Kong temple just around the corner—I started wondering: in Chinese geomancy, or hongsui (fengshui, 風水), are temples considered yin or yang places? I guess it depends on the temple’s design and the deities worshipped.

Generally, temples are yang. They’re lively places where people gather to pray, make offerings and perform rituals—all activities that generate strong yang energy. Many temples have open courtyards, bright colours like red and gold, and strong lighting, which only amplify that yang presence. There’s also a deep connection to the Heavens—Taoist and Buddhist temples, in particular, are often built to align with celestial forces, which are naturally yang.

But there’s a darker side too. Yin energy tends to linger in more secluded areas, especially memorial halls dedicated to the dead. Some temples have dark corners or even underground spaces, dimly lit and decorated accordingly, where ghoulish deities of the netherworld—like Tua Yah Pek and Jee Yah Pek—are worshipped. These spaces, being enclosed and shadowy, naturally accumulate yin energy. Then there are temples hidden deep in forests, perched on mountains or sitting right next to cemeteries, with hardly any human activity—places that definitely lean more towards yin.

That said, I’d say most Chinese temples in Penang are predominantly yang, though they aim to strike a balance between yin and yang for spiritual harmony.

As an addendum to the above story, I must emphasise that the Tua Pek Kong (大伯公) and Tua Yah Pek (大爺伯) are completely different deities with distinct roles in Chinese folk religion.

Tua Pek Kong is a widely revered Earth Deity, often considered a guardian of communities, businesses and the general well-being of people. He is associated with prosperity, protection and landownership. Many temples and shrines are dedicated to him, such as the Poh Hock Seah in Armenian Street.

On the other hand, Tua Yah Pek is one of the Underworld Guardians, alongside Jee Yah Pek (二爺伯). He works under the King of Hell (Phor Tor Ong or Tai Su Yah, 大士爺) and is responsible for guiding and escorting spirits of the deceased to the afterlife. His counterpart, Jee Yah Pek is often depicted in white robes, while Tua Yah Pek is in black. Both grotesque figures, if I'm not mistaken, spot long tongues that reach down to the waist or knees.

Essentially, Tua Pek Kong is a benevolent deity associated with prosperity and protection, while Tua Yah Pek is a fearsome underworld enforcer responsible for the dead.