Kyoto 2024, Day 2

The 14th of November 2024 was the first full day of our visit to Kyoto. As this was meant to be a laid-back holiday, not one where we had to rush through a list of to-do places within a fixed schedule, we only left the hotel mid-morning for Nijō Castle. The walk there was easy and unhurried. The castle wasn’t far from the hotel, but we strolled slowly, taking in the cool autumn air.

Nijō Castle is one of those places that’s quietly majestic. Rich in history, not as crowded as Kyoto’s more famous temples, it offers a powerful glimpse into the country’s feudal past. The castle was built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun of the Edo period. His grandson, Iemitsu, later expanded the complex. While the Tokugawa shogunate ruled from Edo (modern-day Tokyo), Kyoto remained the seat of the emperor, and this castle served as the shogunate’s symbolic stronghold in the imperial city. In 1867, within these very walls, the 15th and final Tokugawa shogun, Yoshinobu, returned power to the emperor, thus signalling the end of the Edo period and the start of the Meiji Restoration. Nijō Castle, in that sense, was witness to history.

Today, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Part of its charm lies in the elegance of its buildings, but just as much in the beauty of the grounds. The castle is surrounded by thick stone walls, wide moats and lovingly maintained gardens. In spring, cherry blossoms brighten the gardens; but we visited in autumn, and the maples were just beginning to turn colour.

There’s something humbling about walking these grounds, knowing they once echoed with the footsteps of the samurai, shoguns and high courtiers. We circled the outer paths, climbed the watch towers for a panoramic view of the compound, and later wandered into a small teahouse near the edge of the castle grounds.

Curious to rest our feet and warm up, we ordered a matcha set. However, there was no ceremony here. We were on our own. Just a tray, plonked down in front of us by the waitress, with all the essentials laid out. A small dish of bright green matcha powder, a bamboo whisk (chasen), hot water, and the tea bowl (chawan). Alongside it came a slice of matcha chiffon cake, with whipped cream and sweet red beans.

Left to our own devices, I gave it a go. A quick whisk of the powder into the hot water, trying to remember the gentle, circular motion I’d seen on videos. I wasn’t aiming for perfection and was happy just to achieve a drinkable froth. The result was slightly bitter, earthy and surprisingly calming. The cake, soft and delicately flavoured, made a lovely match.

It wasn't a traditional tea ceremony, but there was something satisfying about making it ourselves, sitting quietly by ourselves, sipping slowly while the light shifted outside. A simple moment, but memorable in its own way.

All in, we spent about three hours in the castle. It could have been more, but I wanted to press on to our next destination. Besides, we still hadn’t had lunch. By the time we made our way toward the train station, we were definitely feeling the hunger. Just then, we came across the Nijojo-Mae branch of Ramen Fukuchian, tucked along a quiet stretch near the castle.

Despite the time being almost three o’clock, there was a small queue. We had to wait patiently on the pavement until a staff member finally stepped out to invite us in. That’s usually a good sign. The space inside was compact but warm, with a few tightly packed tables and the hum of contented diners. We were seated along a counter.

We ordered two dishes to share. The first was a bowl of tonkotsu ramen, rich and comforting. The broth was velvety from long-simmered pork bones, perfectly seasoned, and clung to the noodles just right. It came topped with tender chashu pork, a seasoned soft-boiled ajitama egg, bean sprouts, seaweed, menma (bamboo shoots), and a generous pile of chopped spring onions. It was everything you’d expect from a satisfying bowl of ramen in Japan—hearty, fragrant and full of umami.

The second dish was a chashu donburi, a rice bowl crowned with thick slices of grilled pork belly and more spring onions, with a raw egg yolk set right in the middle. The yolk added a gorgeous creaminess once mixed in, coating the rice and pork in a rich, silky sauce. We also had a plate of freshly pan-fried gyoza—crispy on the outside, juicy inside. Classic, and very well done.

It was exactly what we needed after a long walk through the castle grounds. And though the meal wasn’t fancy, it was honest and satisfying—Japanese comfort food at its best. Sometimes, these unassuming local places turn out to be the most memorable. Ramen Fukuchian might not be famous, but if you're in the Nijo area, it's definitely worth a stop.

With ourselves now happily full, we made our way to the train station and took a short ride to Gion, Kyoto’s famed geisha district. We emerged near the river just before four o'clock. The light was starting to soften. From there, we crossed into the heart of Gion’s old quarters, where time seemed to slow down. The streets here were narrow and lined with preserved wooden houses: tea houses, restaurants and ochaya (exclusive establishments where geisha entertain).

Naturally, we were hoping for a glimpse of a geiko (Kyoto's term for geisha) or a maiko (an apprentice geisha), but none crossed our path. Perhaps we were too early, or perhaps they were using discreet back alleys known only to locals. Still, wandering through Gion’s twilight streets, with the warm glow of lanterns beginning to flicker to life, was an experience in itself.

We stayed in the area until nightfall, soaking in the shifting mood as the district transitioned from day to evening. We sensed the crowd gradually changing, and there was a quiet buzz in the air as tourists, locals, couples on quiet dates, everyone got drawn into Gion’s old-world charm.

After that, we headed back out to the main road, Shijo Street, where modern life returned in full swing: bright shopfronts and buses rumbling past. The familiar energy of a busy city evening. We didn’t have a fixed plan, so we wandered a little more, peeking into shops and watching the world go by before ducking into an alleyway in search of dinner.

Unfortunately, with everything written in kanji, I’ve long forgotten the name of the restaurant we ended up in. But I do remember the food. It was excellent stuff. And so was the mugi shochu we ordered. At first, we didn't know what it was. We noticed the word "barley" in the menu and thought, "oh, it must be a barley drink. We'd like that!" Mugi shochu turned out to be a beverage distilled from barley. Alcohol content of about 25 percent, but we didn't know. Saw See took a sip and was horrified. Five precepts broken for the day! So I had the whole glass to myself after that. Nevertheless, it was warm and satisfying, the shochu was exactly what I needed to close out the day, even if I was slightly tipsy when staggering out of the establishment.

After dinner, we took the Hankyu-Kyoto Line and got off at Omiya Station, thinking it’d be a short walk back to our hotel. Maybe it was still the tipsiness. According to Google Maps, the Miro Kyoto Nijo Hotel looked close enough, but after a full day of walking, that “short” walk felt much longer than expected. Our legs were ready to give up, but we eventually made it back, all tired but content. And so ended our first full day in Kyoto. A good day, in every sense of the word.